Friday 17 August 2007

Venu Brasserie by Guilbaud

Headed over to VENU on Anne's Lane (off South Anne Street, Dublin) a few days ago - it's of the Patrick Guilbaud stable, by his son Charles.

The service was good - our waiter was helpful and discrete - atmoshpere was easy-going. A main-course of duck (with baby potato, red-onion, jus) arrived as a generous portion (2 legs) cooked to perfection with crispy skin keeping the very tender meat moist ..sadly the pasta with tarragon and mushroom; the rizotto; and a vegetarian curry with roasted-vegetables (they arrived steamed) were all disappointing. (Maybe it's a kitchens that simply lacks imagination with vegetarian meals.) Cocktails were refreshing but neither they nor the Irish coffee possessed the required measures of alcohol.

The space itself is comfortable enough - crucial since VENU is deep in a basement therefore lacking any external views and relying on artificial light. With no windows more skill should have gone into the selection of artworks - but sadly this is a collection lacking any sense of cohesion or imagination. (Charles could definitely benefit from a word with Gina O'Kelly at the SOLOMON gallery). While the prints are inoffensive the same cannot be said for a muddy collection of paintings in the central area (..and faux-greek casts (plastic) on the entrance stairwell?). A couple of Orla de BrĂ­ sculptures are thrown-in for good measure but overall the choice of artworks is unsettling.

We just popped in for a quick bite so had no great expectations but we left agreeing there are much better places in this price-range. Though it got rave reviews when it opened our group agreed there would be no stampede back.

6* / 10*

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